Tag Archives: Italy

GIGLIO ISLAND

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I went behind the wheel of our tiny motor boat at Isola Giglio, a beautiful little island off the coast of Tuscany, Italy. We had nothing but the open sea and a soaked, torn map. As we sped past giant rocks surrounded the main land, we found peaceful little beaches on the coast to anchor down, and do some swimming. I went with just a classic black bikini, a cotton dress, and tons of sunscreen. As we started speeding, my hat flew straight into the ocean! Luckily, the sea was calm and I reached in a grabbed it before it completely disappeared. You can’t separate a girl and her hat. We were sun drunk and I don’t think I’ve ever been this happy. I couldn’t wait for a long nap on the way home. Our hotel deck was the perfect relaxtion spot for our last day in the dreamy Porto Santo Stefano. I did nothing but finish my book and practice flips with the boys. But we were craving pizza. And we wanted the best. So where to next?! NAPLES.

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// Joie dress, River Island swimsuit //

PORTO SANTO STEFANO

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Italy’s best kept secret is definitely the beautiful coast of Porto Santo Stefano. You won’t find this beautiful place in many travel books, and that’s what makes it super special. It’s more of Italian local’s summer destination. The beaches are so incredibly blue green that it doesn’t even look real. So isolated and untouched that you find yourself driving in circles before you find that tiny wooden sign pointing you in the right direction! Eventually we found the sign “Calla de Gesso” scribbled on a little wooden board. We looked over the cliff in awe. I had never seen anything so serene! Water so crystal clear. Made for swimming out to the giant rocks, only to discover hidden coves. We sat and dangled our feet, fully enjoying this once in a lifetime moment. When we’re on the road, we always made sure to pack some mozzarella tomato sandwiches because we really never knew where we’d end up, and there’s nothing a good sandwich can’t fix when you’re on the go. I had a feeling we’d be on this tiny little beach for most of the day, with nothing but our little umbrella stuck in the rocks, and a layer of sunscreen. Calla de Gesso reminded me so much beach I was reading about in the book Beautiful Ruins…a tiny beach washed up with little rocks on the side of a cliff. And it’s so difficult to get to, but worth trekking down in the summer heat. We also spent a day at the calm La Feniglia Ansedonia. A beach town lined with giant tall trees. I still remember the meal we had there like it was yesterday. It was one of the best meals we had the entire trip! We started with extra fresh buttery garlic mussels, and licked our plates clean of the shrimp spaghetti. We rented bikes and were zooming down the coast, only the trees towering above us. I was living in nothing but one-piece swimsuits and cut-off denim shorts. Complete freedom. Life is good.

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// Solid & Striped red swimsuit, Hudson Jeans boyfriend shorts, Onia black swimsuit//

L’ OSTERIA | TUSCANY

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We were pretty excited to leave the heat of Venice, and hop into our tiny air conditioned Fiat 100. On our way to Porto Santo Stefano, we detoured a bit, and made sure to drive through the beautiful winding roads of Tuscany. Out tiny two-seater could only fit us and our suitcases stuffed with swim trunks and suncreen. Our bellies were grumbling by the time we found our exit in Chianti. Past the beautiful vineyards and olive groves, we noticed a small wooden sign that said “L’ Osteria. Aperto.” Restaurant. Open. We pulled into the driveaway of a tiny church, beautiful Renaissance-era homes that looked untouched for centuries, and an old man smoking a cigarette, reading the paper on the porch of the restaurant, Il Rifugio Del Chianti. Quiet, but we figured we attempt to get a good meal. We walked in only to find another man dead asleep on a chair and a strong whiff of smelly cheese coming from the kitchen. We managed to wake him and had him stir us up a simple cheese and proscutto panini. No sauces. Untoasted. But it was incredibly delicious.

We sat outside the little L’ Osteria, and met Marco…the old man on the porch. He seemed happy to have some visitors to chat with. With my Italian being so bad, I just nodded and smiled, as Mickey did all the talking. We found Marco lived right next door to the restaurant, and probably sat there every single day, simply smoking a cigarette and reading the paper. He called out to his daughter to come out and meet his new friends! Carlota was sweet and spoke very good English. Her main question to us was “why do Americans come here? To Italy?” We started laughing. I guess I understand why she didn’t get why us Americans, coming from the Big Apple, found her little town of 18 people (yet perched so beautifully on the side of a mountain) to be charming. It’s true…why Italy? Maybe it’s for the romance, the adventure, the accents. Maybe it was just to get a bite of that simple cheese and prosciutto panini…something I’d normally never order back home in NYC. But it was all of these things. Italy is a place unlike any other. Us Americans just want a taste of it.

They helped us map out our way out to Porto Santo Stefano, and took off, tired as can be. I knew we would be arriving way past midnight to the hotel going at our rate. But we were in no rush. That’s the beauty of traveling. Making your own schedule and going with the flow. We bought some wine at the vineyard of Castella d’ Albola, but we really we just needed coffee. Driving under the hot Italian sun was making me sleepy. With one last pit-stop, we met the lovely Maria Pia! Her name rhyming and rolling off my tongue. I couldn’t help but feel right at home with just one look at her bubbly, smiling face. She served us extra strong espresso and homemade biscuits for the road, knowing we still had hours of traveling ahead. We were on our way.

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// Raen sunglasses, RED23 tee, Coach sandals, Free People bandana, Vintage shorts and belt //

TO LA BIENNALE

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Lucky for us, we were in Venice just as La Biennale was happening. (The contemporary art festival that only happens once every 2 years). I was intrigued by the interesting art from around the world…all in one special place. Each country’s pavilion with a different artist. Some had short films projected on a wall. Some drawings scribbled so small you had to squint to see them. Others a room just full of rose buds. Everything felt home-made and raw. All their own vision of our future. Most of the art we saw was dark, and not very positive…but it was the best way to understand our world from a unique perspective. War. Extinction. Innovation. Technology. “Time is running out!” screamed Australia’s pavilion full of ticking clocks. Cobwebs covering cans of paint. Great Britain’s yellow imagination and the French’s moving trees. As you kept going from building to building, everyone’s stories seemed to intertwine. The world’s problems something we’re all still trying to understand. Some countries had their pavilions off-site. Like the Iran pavilion was in a gorgeous Venetian home just off the Grand Canale. Quiet, and filled with drawings and artwork of the children, those who were taken away from their families or affected by war. You could just sit in a room on a bench, listen to the TV playing, and stare at all of these pictures, framed side by side. La Biennale was a memorable and educational way to spend our last day in Venice. Sort of hitting you in the face with reality amidst the romantic, dreamy vibe a tourist feels when just embarking on the best Italy trip of all time.

But it’s funny how easily we snapped back into honeymoon stage the moment the sun went down. Venice will do that to you. Clams in delicious tomato sauce swirling in my bowl. I’ll take another glass of Chardonnay please! Complete with a perfect view of the gondolas…their shadows bobbing in the water just outside the restaurant. I stopped on a bridge for one last moment to soak it all in. Our adventure was just beginning. We still had a car to rent the next morning, a beach to get to, and a drive through the small roads of Tuscany waiting for us. See you soon Porto Santo Stefano. I was dying to meet a place like you.

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// Joie blouse, Donni Charm scarf, Biko choker, Vintage denim shorts//

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